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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.